Guarayos Province

The province of Guarayos, as with its southern neighbour Chiquitos Province, was named for a tribe who originally inhabited the region. One of the main tribal groups of the Chiquitania (the others being the Ayoreo, Chiquitano, and Guaraní), the Guarayo community, although small (less than 7,500 throughout the entire Chiquitania) is still well represented in this province. In fact, of the six provinces that comprise the Chiquitania, Guarayos has the highest percentage of indigenous inhabitants.

Part of neighbouring Ñuflo de Chávez Province until 1990, Guarayos is the newest province in Santa Cruz Department. In many ways it is typical of the Oriente in general. It has a sparse population and low population density (with only one large town, the provincial capital Ascención de Guarayos), flat, fertile pastures and grazing lands, and several rivers. Like most of the Chiquitania, it also has an abundance of wildlife. Much of it can be seen in the little-known and (less-visited) Reserva de Vida Silvestre Ríos Blanco y Negro in the northern reaches of the territory...or it could, if there were an easy way of getting there (which at present there isn't).

Another thing Gurayos has in abundance is a unique cultural landscape. You'll see it in every town: people speak with an accent all of their own, wear different apparel and jewelry, have religious traditions not found in the other provinces of the Chiquitania, and are immensely proud of their artistic (especially musical) heritage. Besides Ascención itself, this charming culture is most easily seen in El Puente and Urubichá.

Budding celloists: Guarayos Province

This is well worth investigating. While much of the Oriente was profoundly influenced by the synthesis of cultures between the Jesuits and the local inhabitants, Guarayos - although largely settled by missionaries as well (albeit mostly Franciscans, and many years later at that) - remained relatively untouched. As a result, it has retained its ancient cultural expressions and traditions in pristine form. This is especially true with its musical heritage (the town of Urubichá is now a well-known centre for native American Baroque music as well as a place of manufacture for rare musical instruments) and its beautiful hammocks and other fabrics (for which Ascención is famous). If you have the good fortune to be in either town during Semana Santa (Holy Week), you'll be amazed.

In fact, if you're looking for the province that offers the most native charm and natural ambience, a place where you can swing from a palm-frond hammock without ever seeing an aeroplane above you, where you can meet people as they were centuries ago, Guarayos is where you should head first.