San Xavier

San Xavier - or San Francisco Xavier de los Piñocas (who were the first inhabitants) as it originally was known - was founded by the Jesuit missionaries Fr. José de Arce and Br. Antonio de Rivas on 31 December 1691, earning it the distinction of being the first Jesuit mission in the Chiquitania. Fr. Arce had been given explicit orders to find a route between Asunción and Santa Cruz, and San Xavier was chosen. What most accounts omit is that the two Jesuits were nearly dead of starvation and almost certainly lost when befriended by the Piñocas. They could not have travelled much further in any case and so the settlement arose where it did.

It was rebuilt on three occasions before settling into its present form in 1708. San Xavier (often spelled San Javier) is today a town of about 11,000 inhabitants, and the starting point for most who want to make the Jesuit Missions Circuit. An easy 140 miles (225 kms) from Santa Cruz over asphalt roads, the journey can be made in less than three hours.

The town is best known as a tranquil weekend get-away for wealthy cruzeños, many of whom have luxurious cabañas (weekend houses) and ranches on the outskirts of town. Yet for all its placid appearance today, San Xavier played a much larger part in the history of the Jesuit missions than one may think. Shortly after its foundation, it was the site of a fierce battle (one of the very few that took place in the Chiquitania, outside of the Chaco War) between the Piñocas - led by a combined group of Jesuits and Spanish soldiers - and mamelucos, as the Portuguese slave traders from Brazil were known. The mamelucos had their heads handed to them...literally, courtesy of the Piñocas. San Xavier also is the birthplace of Bolivia's charismatic but ill-starred president, Germán Busch (who died by his own hand while in office, at the age of 35).

You will buy my cheese and you will like it

Those who live here tend to be affiliated with agriculture or cattle in one way or another. So it stands to reason that the town is very proud of its milk-processing plant, the Quesería Artesanal (less than a mile out of town on the right, heading towards Concepción), which, as its name suggests, also makes cheese (predominantly mozzarella), and the area's gastronomical treat, cuñapés (a type of hardened cheese bread, perfect for long trips). Any local will tell you that the place recently was named Bolivia's "National Cheese Capital". Whether that's a mark of distinction or opprobrium depends upon whether you fancy Bolivian cheeses. Go buy some (the store is open every day and is three blocks off of the plaza principal) and then decide.

San Xavier is a quiet place: there are no discos, theatres, or shopping malls; although there are some artesanías (see the list below) that sell beautiful handiwork at ridiculously cheap prices, or carve items upon request with 24 hours' notice. These, along with the church, museum, restaurants, and hotels (see the other tables below), are grouped for the most part about the main square, technically Plaza Tte. General Germán Busch Becerra, named after the town's favourite son (but plaza principal to everyone).

Santa Rosa de la Mina
Let's back up just a bit. Before even entering San Xavier, however, there is one place you do not want to miss. This establishment is the stunning Santa Rosa de la Mina, an eco-friendly residential club located about 30 kms (18.6 miles) before the town, and 5 miles [8 kms] past San Ramón on the main road. This resort easily is one of the most beautiful in the entire country. It is equipped with its own airstrip, golf courses, private roads, equestrian facilities, islands, fish ponds, and man-made lakes and beaches, to say nothing of its luxurious yet rustic cabañas. At roughly 2,500 acres (1,000+ hectares), it may as well be its own municipality, which technically it already is (and has been since 1830, when it was the site of a mining camp). The resort is unique in Bolivia not only for its amenities, but also its sensitivity to its surroundings, which are pristine. There are private cabañas for rent as well as purchase (some undeveloped lots are also available), and the various communities of permanent residents live in either stand-alone houses or in country club-style condominiums. Santa Rosa de la Mina also marks what many consider "la entrada a la gran Chiquitania" ("the entrance to the Chiquitania").

A terrestrial paradise: Santa Rosa de la Mina

Where to Go
As regards San Xavier proper, of course, start with the church, which was begun in 1749 and completed three years later. What you'll be looking at is a meticulously restored edifice, brought back to life by Hans Roth and his dedicated crew of mostly native workers between 1987 and 1992. Entrance is, of course, free. As you enter, look straight above you: there, on the crossbeam above the massive doors, you still can see an inscription in Chiquitano. It reads: "AD 1750 - Maanacubo mo naqui-Apóstol San Francisco Xavier," or in English, "This was finished in 1750 and dedicated to Saint Francis Xavier." ("This" refers to the roof only.) The Jesuits left nothing to chance, and it is significant that this appears in Chiquitano. It was designed to be read by recently literate native converts before entering the church. Incidentally, the roof is covered with the very same tiles that Schmid used more than 250 years ago, and much of the interior and its furnishings are original as well.

There are additional buildings that form the mission complex (called the Conjunto Misional San Francisco Xavier), and admission is Bs. 5. Not to be missed is the dedicatory plaque from UNESCO inscribing San Xavier and five other Chiquitos mission settlements as World Heritage Sites as of 12 December 1990. It is located in the baptistery of the church. Be sure to pick up the free English-language brochure, "Welcome to the Parish Church of San Javier." It's an excellent guide in itself, available in both the Conjunto Misional San Francisco Xavier and the parish office.

Church of San Xavier: dedicatory inscription in Chiquitano

For the less independently inclined, there are guides available in San Xavier. There is also - surprise! - a tourist information office, run by the Tourist Guides Association of San Javier, headquartered in the alcaldía located just before the left-hand turn that takes one to the church and plaza principal.

Currently, the guide association of is staffed by two full-time guides, Magno Cornelio (who you can reach by cell, at 776-17902) and Eduardo Vargas (also by cell, at 776.33203). You can find Magno daily from 0900–1200 and again from 1400-1800 in the Artesanía San Xavier store, located on the south side of the main plaza.

There are several interesting spots in and around San Xavier, including the Escuela de Músical Misional, a direct descendant of the original music school established by the indefatigable Jesuit Fr. Martin Schmid - who also constructed the monumental church - more than 270 years ago. Its library holds thousands of musical scores dating back hundreds of years. Apart from their incalculable value to musicologists and historians, these - along with those in neighbouring Concepción - are used every other April in the famous International American Renaissance and Baroque Musical Festival "Misiones de Chiquitos".

Also in town is the Museo Misiones de Chiquitos, next to the church. Here you'll see instruments (some of which are still occasionally used) that were employed in religious services centuries ago, as well as the church's original bells, religious paintings, and even bits of an old organ carried by mule all the way from Potosí many years ago.

Courtyard of San Xavier mission complex: faux staircase

Another must-see on the plaza principal is the new Museo Yaritú, whose primary emphasis is upon the dances and other sacred rites formerly conducted by the area's inhabitants prior to the arrival of the missionaries. This is a rare example of a pre-mission culture on display in its true environment, and well worth taking in. It has proven so popular that there now is a group - the impressively named Agrupación de Manifestaciones Culturales "Yaritus" - who perform several centuries-old ceremonial dances in traditional costume and explain the Yaritús' fascinating cosmovision. This is wonderful cultural candy, and you can have it right where it all began. The two guides mentioned above are the best contacts for these shows.

After this, your best bet is the Casa de la Cultura "Tte. Gral. Germán Busch", also located on the main plaza (at the intersection of calles Miguel Hertado and Tte. General Germán Busch Becerra). It contains many artifacts from Busch's brief but eventful life. You can call ahead (963.5149), but it's best to just show up if looking for information. Be sure to pick up their brochure, "Conozca la Primera Misión Jesuítica...San Xavier", that is, if you read Spanish.

Very close to town are two nice spots: the lovely overlook called La Piedra de Bibósi, with its grove of now-rare bibósi trees and serene natural pool, and the rock formation Piedra de Los Apóstoles, worshipped by the Piñocas as the home of their god Nupayaré. In spite of the Jesuits' efforts to extirpate pagan influences, this deity still makes his annual appearance at the town's Yaritú festivities, held in September during the "Day of Tradition". Christ was referred to here amongst the natives not as "the Redeemer" but as el Yiritux, meaning "He who is adored in the hills and valleys". This was how the Jesuits conveyed God's omnipresence to the Piñocas.

Church of San Xavier: main altar and reredo

Everything else you'll want to see is located out of town, and all the excursions are no more than two hours' drive. There are a handful of taxis that perambulate about the plaza, but always ask the fare in advance. Otherwise, catch a ride with a local or ask if one of the regional buses will let you off at your destination.

Just 1.5 miles (3 kms) out of town to the north - heading towards the Río Blanco, not Santa Cruz - you'll come to the gorgeous Cabañas Totaitú, some of the most impressive (and expensive) in the entire country, as well as the beautiful Laguna Soroboquí, a gorgeous spot to rest, canoe, bird watch, or camp if you're not keen on staying in town. Another 7.5 miles (12 kms) further up brings you to some hot springs, known simply as Aguas Calientes, reputed by the locals to have curative powers, and situated in a setting that is as close to paradise as you'll find on earth. The flora here is straight out of the Garden of Eden, and you can camp as well. If you stay on this route, you'll also see Los Tumbos at 12.4 miles (20 kms) - a great swimming spot - some inviting hot springs, known as Aguas Tibias at 23 miles (37 kms), which has a nature preserve with tourist facilities, and finally, the Río Blanco at 37 miles (60 kms). Follow it further north and you'll reach the Amazon: the Río Blanco is one of its longest tributaries.

There also are three local indigenous communities to the immediate west of San Xavier. These are San José, Las Abras, and San Pablo. Here, in many ways, life is almost identical to what it was in the days of the missionaries, more than 300 years ago. The natives wear their traditional apparel, speak their own (now dying) language, and retain their own customs.

Places to Shop in San Xavier

Places to Eat in San Xavier
If you're hungry but would prefer to buy your food as take-away, two awesome bakeries will do the trick. Both La Chonta and La Negra are open seven days a week from 1400 to 1600 (they're rarely officially closed, in fact) and sell traditional biscuits (biscochos) and the area's famous cuñapes as well as several types of bread. They're both just a block or so off the plaza principal.

Now the small print.... Only those restaurants that have either a (sometimes vague) street address and/or telephone number are included here. All towns in the region have additional eateries, especially in or near the market (ideal for travellers with cast-iron stomachs), but this list incorporates only those that one reasonably can expect to locate without trouble.

The following establishments are listed alphabetically, and are not in any other particular order. Most hotels and other accommodations have their own restaurants. Room service is generally not offered, except in luxury-class establishments.

Places to Stay in San Xavier
First the small print again.... Before you go through the list below, know that categorising accommodations in Bolivia is a subjective experience in the extreme. According to the Unidad de Turismo de la Prefectura del Departamento de Santa Cruz (arguably Bolivia's most utterly useless government agency, and there are many that vie for this title), there are supposedly seven classifications, ranging from luxury digs (such as country clubs, upscale cabañas, and five-star hotels) to humble casas de huéspedes. And for good measure, there are also no categorizados - usually places that are quite all right but are tired of moronic government nabobs trying to put the screws to them, so they simply do not respond to requests for information. San Xavier, Concepción, and San Ignacio de Velasco have the most luxury, hotel, and hostal establishments (the top three categories), although every town has at least a casa de huéspedes, if not an alojamiento or even residencial as well. Note also, that many establishments list themselves as hotels, when in fact they are officially alojamientos, residenciales, or casas de huéspedes.

Only those establishments that have either a (sometimes vague) street address and/or telephone number are included here. Again, all towns in the Chiquitania have additional accommodations, but this list incorporates only those that one reasonably can expect to locate without trouble.

Prices? They change, just as they do anywhere in the world over time. It is unlikely, however (outside of the ultra-high end country clubs and one or two cabañas) that you'll pay more than US$30/night per person in even the most deluxe accommodations anywhere in the Chiquitania.

When to Visit San Xavier

But Does San Xavier Have A...?