San José de Chiquitos

San José de Chiquitos, the third-oldest Jesuit mission in the Chiquitania and one of the prettiest, was founded in 1696 by Frs. Felipe Suárez (who later co-founded San Miguel de Velasco to the north) and Dionisio Avila. It is one of only four missions that has retained its original location. It is in fact its location that made it the most important town in the region for more than three centuries (although San Ignacio de Velasco has since surpassed it in importance). A little more than halfway between Santa Cruz and Puerto Suárez, it is an important stop along the Santa Cruz-to-Brazil route by train and road (the latter recently was paved from here to Roboré), a major ranching centre, and the gateway to two national parks, Santa Cruz la Vieja just outside of town, and the massive Kaa-Iya to the south, in neighbouring Cordillera Province.

Because of its location and accessibility, San José de Chiquitos (whose name is generally not shortened to San José, to distinguish it from the dozens of other San Josés scattered about the country) will be most travellers' first or last stop along the Jesuit Missions Circuit, depending upon whether one is coming from Brazil or Santa Cruz. The majority of visitors come by train, the infamous tren de muerte, in fact. The town is quite peaceful, much like what Santa Cruz was fifty years ago: wide, dusty streets straight out of a Hollywood western movie, complete with cowboys, ranchers, and a dusty but charming main square, where most of the action - such as it is - takes place.

Where to Go
Start with the plaza principal (officially the Plaza Padre Felipe Suárez) and look across the street. Even if you've seen the other Jesuit mission churches, the uniqueness of San José de Chiquitos's unbelievable mission complex is one that will not fail to impress. Its stone construction and late Baroque architecture is such that it is literally unique in the world. It took more than 5,000 people to pull this gem together in four stages. The stone and adobe (owing to the fact that there was very little wood in the area) church came first (completed in 1747), followed by the bell tower (torre de campanario) in 1748, the ossuary (now closed) in 1750, and the colegio and workshops in 1754. Ring up the parochial offices for information on what parts are closed (something always is) at 972.2156. If you're unobtrusive and don't mind usurping what has otherwise been commandeered by the local children for their high-altitude playground, you can climb the bell tower and take in some incredible views of the town and countryside. (Ask the padre first, however.)

Check out the interior courtyard as well. Apart from the old colegio (presently being converted into a music school), there is an interesting-looking sundial conspicuously placed at the centre. A vestigial reminder of the complex's old mission days? Not exactly. The sundial, for all its weathered look, is quite new. The original was moved years ago, when the railroad came to town and some civic-minded residents hit up the Bolivian railroad hierarchy for funds to build a charming new one of grey cement, which they apparently thought looked better than the priceless, historic original. Meanwhile, the original one sits hidden in a corner, a stone's throw away.

Church of San José de Chiquitos: Beyond unique

If you're thinking of purchasing some handicrafts and the like, ring the Asociación de Artesanos Chiquitos - San José (972.2305) and hope that someone's in the office that day. They're a half block off the plaza and have wonderful items across the board, from fabrics to shirts, carvings to walking sticks, and the famous abuelos masks that feauture prominently in the region's folklore and traditions. These and other local artists carry on a centuries-old tradition with little in the way of resources and even less recognition from the outside world. They are happy to share with visitors the stories and legends they weave into their creations. If you like what you see - and who can resist an authentic abuelo mask or cane to bring home? - please buy from the people here who make them. The all-female Asociación de Artesanos Chiquitanos (ARTECHI) is another sure bet, and they're generally easier to get ahold of, too. Artesanías San José, right on the main plaza, also has interesting regional items, and - remarkably - is open during the afternoon siesta (1230 - 1500).

San José de Chiquitos used to have a sizeable Ayoreo population (in addition to its namesake Chiquitos inhabitants) and several artesanías (including the two referenced above) sell beautiful but rugged hammocks hand-woven by Ayoreo women using centuries-old techniques. These are every bit the equal of the better-known Guarayos hammocks found closer to Santa Cruz.

As with the other Jesuit towns in the Chiquitania, the area's unique music retains a prominent place in its culture. San José de Chiquitos boasts at least two or three schools of music and an orchestra, which is a sub-set of the well-known Gran Orquesta de las Misiones de Chiquitos. It performs frequently, and always during the acclaimed International American Renaissance and Baroque Music Festival "Misiones de Chiquitos", held towards the end of April in even years (e.g., 2008, 2010).

There is also a small gift shop and display area in the casa de la cultura (see below) that holds some interest - maybe - to the student of anthropology. The church has a newly built, small museum, and the Museo Ayoreo-Chiquitano, co-founded by the wonderful non-profit conservation organisations Hombre y Naturaleza and Fundación para la Conversación del Bosque Chiquitano is also well worth a stop.

And if your taste in music runs modern and you've brought your dancing shoes, you're in luck...or in hell...depending upon your outlook. There are three discotheques right in town: Don Joaquín, La Pascana Disco, and the ominously named Karaoke 5 mentario. This last one perhaps needs explaining. The number five is "cinco" in Spanish, which forms a clever play on words: cinco + mentario = "sin comentario", which translates as "without comment". Whether this refers to the discotheque itself or what goes on inside is best left to the imagination. In any case, if you hit the clubs, don't bring glow sticks or other rave material. You will not hear house, jungle, trance, or anything even close, but instead an unimaginably warped version of some 70s disco number sung in Spanish. And that hurts.

As for other local cultural venues, apart from several religious and folkloric festivals (which are amongst the most faithful to tradition here), they are few and far between; you'll have to move outside of the town to see the rest. There are plenty of taxis perambulating about the plaza principal to help you do just that, although you're better off with your own vehicle. Before you head out, check with the Oficina Mayor de Cultura y Turismo (972.2084): they're extremely hospitable, and will have the latest on whatever else may be happening in and around town. Located next to the alcaldía at the corner of the plaza (at the intersection of calles Bolívar and Linares), they publish a fold-out map/guide, "San José de Chiquitos Patrimonio Cultural de la Humanidad", which (if you read Spanish) is invaluable. The town also has its very own guides...well, one anyway...the affable Luís Alberto Rodas (972.2146), who can show you what's what and where.

Yarituses leading the way: El Día de la Tradición in San José de Chiquitos

Parque Nacional Histórico Santa Cruz la Vieja
Your first stop outside of town? Definitely the Parque Nacional Histórico Santa Cruz la Vieja. Before you go, see if you can find the great little guide (it costs only Bs. 10) Parque Nacional Histórico "Santa Cruz la Vieja" (published in 2004 by Fundación Natura Vida). It may be available at the casa de cultura or one of the museums. It has everything you could ever want to know about the park.

Less than 3 miles (5 kms) south of town, this is a wonderful spot to relax and see where the departmental capital of Santa Cruz was founded by the celebrated Spanish lieutenant Ñuflo de Chávez on 26 February 1561 (before its relocations in 1595, and then in 1621 to its present site). The name was chosen in honour of his hometown in Extremadura, Spain. The settlement was not a secure one, and although at one time it supposedly held nearly 20,000 inhabitants (200 is a more accurate guess), the town was forceably moved west to the present-day town of Cotoca, and the site abandoned for good in 1604.

You won't find Ñuflo's name in print much these days. It's worth remembering that he was as intrepid as they come. Originally based in Paraguay, he walked - as in "on foot the entire way" - from one side of South America to the other in 1548, arriving finally in Lima, and then, incredibly, back to Asunción again. He did it again in 1558, and this time got his reward: the Viceroyalty created the province of Moxos (which was quickly renamed Santa Cruz) and more or less left him in charge of it. These journeys and his diplomatic skills earned him immense respect. Nonetheless, just seven years after founding the town, he was killed by an Itatine warrior. Incidentally, he introduced both sheep and goats to Bolivia; to this day they remain important sources of the country's food and income.

There's nearly 119 square miles (172 kms) under protection here, but the part of the park closest to the entrance is what interests most visitors. History buffs be prepared: Despite some guidebooks touting the place as a shining jewel of historical significance, there isn't much to see except a row of wooden crosses flanking the trail to a hill marking the spot where the explorer established the town, and the vestiges of its street plan. And naturally, the obligatory statue of Don Ñuflo himself. What you'll remember most instead is the area's remarkable ambience. It is a tranquil, serene place, with shade trees lining the walk, a perfect spot for contemplation. For such a small park (by Bolivian standards), there is a surfeit of flora and fauna, although you'll have to go deep to find it. More than 70 animal and bird species (including the now-extremely rare panther) and perhaps double that number of tree types are present. It supposedly will cost you Bs. 20 to get into the park, but that's only if there's someone at the gate, which is unlikely as at the present there is no guardaparque. So you're off the hook on that one.

Another 2 miles or so south will find you at the Cascadas del Suruquizo, which boast three beautiful waterfalls and springs, the largest of which, the chromatically ever-changing Laguna Leteí, is the source of much of the town's fresh water. If you've hiked the distance here from the park, it is sheer paradise to loll about in one of the pools or under the falls!

In this climate, nearly every town has its balneario (technically a resort, but in these parts, a municipal swimming pool with snack bar and changing rooms), and San José de Chiquitos has two. Some locals may steer you towards the one at El Sutó, just south of the park. It is closer than the cascades, but it is also algae-ridden and usually crowded. Don't waste your time (or the Bs. 5 entrance fee). There is another balneario closer to town - El Quebracho - where you can grab a snack and hang with the locals, although here again, the pool is less than optimal. It does have three cabinas, however, in case you're inclined to spend the night.

San José de Chiquitos is ground zero for prehistoric cave paintings, and locals can point you in the direction of several of the better-known spots for petroglyphs, including "Capinzal", El Diablito", "Motacusito", Pope Santosch", "Roca Alada", and "San Pedro", all of which are located not terribly far from town. You'll need transport to reach them, however.

If you head due east for a few miles along the road to Puerto Suárez, you'll see Cerro Turubó off to the right. At 1,971 feet (657 metres), it is the highest point in the province and affords astonishingly beautiful views. The summit can be climbed easily, but not without insect repellant...and a camera. Cerro Turubó stands at the foot of the Serranía de San José, an awe-inspiring Pre-Cambrian range of low ridges that seem to stretch endlessly to the east. Time disappears here, and the sensation one has upon seeing them is of looking directly into the prehistoric past.

The silent giant: Cerro Turubó in the distance

It is possible to enter the enormous Kaa-Iya National Park by heading due south from San José de Chiquitos, although a 4x4 vehicle is essential. This trip is not for the faint of heart or inexperienced. If you're game, however, and have provisions, head out for the hamlet of Leteí along the road to the lake of the same name. Keep Cerro Pedrito directly in front of you, and within 50 miles (80 kms), you'll be there. Want the ultimate in remote travel? Keep going and if you beat the odds, you'll wind up in northern Paraguay. This would be a great story to tell your grandchildren...if you live to tell it.

If you read Spanish, be sure to take along the latest edition of Destinos del Sureste Cruceño, an outstanding tourist guide for local sites. You may be able to find it at the alcaldía as well as in travel agencies in Santa Cruz.

Places to Shop in San José de Chiquitos

Places to Eat in San José de Chiquitos
Unlike the other restaurant listings for the Chiquitania, there are several included here that do not have either a street address or telephone number. San José de Chiquitos has dozens of eateries scattered about the train station and marketplace, most of which exist to meet the needs of in-transit visitors; the number changes too frequently to make a go of listing them all.

Nonetheless, the following establishments can be found easily enough by asking...I hope. (If you see a fetching gringa zipping about on a vintage bicycle, holler out "Hey, Alicia!" If she stops, ask her: she knows them all.) They are listed alphabetically, and are not in any other particular order. Most hotels and other accommodations have their own restaurants. Room service is generally not offered, except in luxury-class establishments.

It must be mentioned that the best pizza in Bolivia, nay, in South America and possibly the Western Hemisphere itself, can be had in humble San José de Chiquitos. Check the incredible pizzeria Romanazzi. As one traveller not so discretely put it: "It is the culinary equivalent of an endless orgasm."

Places to Stay in San José de Chiquitos

When to Visit San José de Chiquitos

If you want to see San José de Chiquitos at the optimal time, go the last week of April. Its patronal feast is the first of May, and the week leading up to it is filled with interesting cultural, economic, gastronomic, religious, and sporting events. Some of the folklore events in particular are unique and cannot be seen anywhere else.

But Does San José de Chiquitos Have A...?