Concepción

History and Background
The lovely town of Concepción, the capital of Ñuflo de Chávez Province, was first established as the mission of La Inmaculada Concepción in 1699, although this settlement lasted only a few years. It started up again in 1707, subsequently incorporating the nearby (and ephemeral) mission of San Ignacio de Boococas the following year, the date that most historians take to be that of its permanent founding. Concepción was established by Jesuit missionaries Frs. Francisco Lucas Caballero and Francisco Hervás (the latter of whom also co-founded San Miguel de Velasco and San Rafael de Velasco).

As relatively strife-free as the Jesuit expansion into the area was, there were exceptions. Caballero was killed - probably a case of mistaken identity as a Portuguese bandeirante - two years later by hostile Puyzoca (who ironically later settled in the town). The grave of this first and one of only four Jesuit martyrs of the Chiquitania remains unknown. Concepción was moved again in 1722 by Fr. Juan de Benavente to its current location. It soon became the cultural centre of the region, with Fr. Ignacio Chomé publishing the first Chiquitano and Ayoreo dictionaries there in 1750.

As many of its original inhabitants were Chiquitano, and Concepción was one of the largest settlements, by the 1760s the Jesuits decided to make this language the lingua franca of the region, even in areas where other languages predominated. And so it remains today for those who still speak the local tribal dialects, of which there are at least a dozen still used (out of at least 36 that were spoken at the time of the Jesuits' arrival in the Chiquitania).

Fast-forward some 160 years: In 1926, the late Bolivian president and reformed assassin, Hugo Banzar was born here, and in 1951, the Apostolic Vicariate of Ñuflo de Chávez was established, with Concepción as its seat.

The second stop along the Jesuit Missions Circuit, many consider Concepción, with its population of roughly 9,000 and the countryside around it, the most enchanting part of the journey, and indeed, the entire Chiquitania. Roughly 174 miles (280 kms) distant from Santa Cruz along an asphalt road that affords some of the country's most scenic views, on a good day the trip can be made in under four hours.

As with all the towns in the Chiquitania, the pace of life in Concepción is decidedly slow. That and its beautiful surroundings, make it a great spot to relax and kick back. Much of what you'll want to see from a cultural and historic perspective is in the middle of town, so take your time. After experiencing its phenomenal templo (now a cathedral), everything else may seem anti-climactic, but there's quite a bit more to see.

Sit right down: Tree in Concepción's Plaza 8 de Diciembre

Where to Go
As one of the larger towns in the Chiquitania, Concepción has a lot to see and do, and you may want to go with a guide. There is a municipal guide association in the northeast corner of the plaza principal (officially the Plaza 8 de Diciembre). If interested, give them a call (964.3057). Or trot over. But be careful: Its paving seems to be an ongoing job. Definitely don't bring your Louis Vuitton loafers.

The church is now technically a cathedral, as it is the seat of the apostolic vicar - who holds the rank of bishop (and has a blog, too) - of the Apostolic Vicariate of Ñuflo de Chávez. It was built by Fr. Martin Schmid (who also was responsible for the churches of San Rafael and San Xavier), with help from his assistant, Fr. Juan Messner, between 1753-1756. Along with its nearby convent (now the bishop's offices and a rectory - which doubles as an artesanía) and museum (entrance is Bs. 8), all built at the same time, it forms a marvellously harmonious architectural whole. Its restoration began in 1975 and took more than seven years to complete.

There is a wonderful book written by Fr. Antonio Eduardo Bösl, O.F.M., the former apostolic vicar, entiled Una joya en la selva boliviana: la restauración del templo colonial de Concepción that details its restoration process. And if you're interested in the history of the vicariate itself, pick up Fr. Humberto Scholz's "La historia de un desafío misionero", which is available only at the parroquía in Concepción.)

The Stations of the Cross you'll notice immediately. They are post-modern and do not form a seamless whole with the rest of the cathedral. Nor are they meant to: they are scathing indictments of something the Jesuits never saw coming - the ecological destruction that is now going on throughout much of South America, and make an eloquent argument that raping the land is a mortal - albeit often unacknowledged - sin.

There is an excellent, Spanish-only brochure detailing the history and restoration of the complex available inside the rectory (you may be nicked a paltry Bs. 5 for one, but it's worth the investment). Entitled simply "Concepción" with a photograph of the templo on the cover, this also contains an excellent historical overview of the region. The former rector of the cathedral, Fr. Reinaldo Brumberger, O.F.M., now toiling away in the Beni, wrote two interesting pamphlets, "Misiones de Chiquitos" and "El Alma Chiquitana: Historia del Pueblo Chiquitano", also available inside. These offer an honest assessment of the area's past, present, and future. Sadly, this is not always easy reading when one considers to what state the local indigenous peoples have been reduced and their still-marginalised existence today.

Tucked away inside the complex (you'll have to ask for admittance) are the Episcopal Archives, which contain more than 5,000 different Jesuit music scores dating from the missionary period. Composed by well-known European composers (including Domenico Zipoli, and even Schmid and Messner) as well as anonymous native ones, these are priceless documents that illustrate how the centuries-old pieces were played, and are written in Italian, Latin, Spanish, and even Guaraní (Zipoli, a Jesuit brother, had spent time in the Paraguay missions before settling in Cordóba, Argentina.) These were discovered by the ex-Jesuit architect Hans Roth and are gradually being translated. This repository is unique in the entire Western Hemisphere. Yet for all of its singular importance to historians and musicologists, it is almost never mentioned in guidebooks. As you might imagine, when the celebrated International American Renaissance and Baroque Music Festival "Misiones de Chiquitos" (held every other April-May, in even years) rolls into town, this is one of the key places to be.

It goes without saying that the entire conjunto - and especially the interior - is simply gorgeous from start to finish. Granted, the hand-painted angels flanking the front façade are hideous, something at which the Jesuits would have recoiled in horror. But, glaring exceptions like these aside, many would consider Concepción's missionary complex the most attractive of all of those in the Chiquitos. It's hardly any wonder it's such a popular spot for marriages.

Yes, Concepción Cathedral will do just fine

After the mission complex, and to its right on Calle Cabo Miguel Moreno, start with the Oficina de Turismo (call first: 964.3057; if it's closed, as it inevitably will be, go next door to the town offices - known as the alcaldía - and wake up one of the sleeping clerks), where they have an impressively titled English/Spanish brochure, "Concepción: Patrimonial Cultural & Santuario de La Orquídea y de Las Rapaces". They'll also organise day tours according to your interests. If you're cheeky enough, ring the bishop's offices (964.3010), patiently explain that yes, you've seen the cathedral, and would now like to see the complex's workshops, too. They'll love you for that. They're open for visitors weekdays from 1030 to 1530, and the guided tour is free.

You can't buy any masterpieces in the workshops - they're reserved for the ongoing restoration of the templos throughout the region - but you can elsewhere - and for a pittance - in several artesanías, including the one run by the Church (the profits of which go back to the people it serves). Otherwise, the best known is Grupo Hans Roth (964.3174), which is well regarded for its exquisite wooden carvings of angels and leather goods. This outfit works with Mancomunidad de Municipios Chiquitanos, a Santa Cruz-based non-profit that helps provide better economic opportunities for the area's inhabitants, so you're doing a lot of people a world of good when you buy here.

Another recommended place to buy local handicrafts is the Museo Misional, located off the plaza principal in the old cabildo (town hall), which also happens to be the birthplace of the late Bolivian president, Hugo Banzar - something you probably do not want to bring up with the locals. It's open Monday through Saturday from 0800 to 1200 and again from 1430 to 1830, and Sundays from 1000 to 1230. Admission is a paltry Bs. 6, which gets you into the fascinating Hans Roth room - dedicated to the late Swiss architect who so painstakingly laboured to restore the Jesuit mission churches throughout the Chiquitania. The detail and craftsmanship here is incredible. You most definitely will discover an appreciation for the work that went into these church complexes after seeing this museum. If you're interested in colonial architecture or restoration work, this is a mandatory stop.

This seems a good spot to reiterate that no matter what you may buy here, you won't spend much in a relative sense, but remember that your purchases most definitely are helping to feed a family, educate a child, or supply medicine to people who otherwise would not have these things. Please do not take the shortcut of buying from US-based distributors who turn a profit at the expense of native artisans, all the while claiming how much they are trying to help them. Not only are you much more likely to be ripped off (they have control over what they give you, you do not), but really, it's kind of hypocritical, no? Buy direct instead.

There is also the inevitable President Banzar room, although it is not as fascinating a spot as that dedicated to Hans Roth. There are also rooms displaying Chiquitano and Guarayo culture. In the gift shop next door, you can have for pocket change - amongst other finds such as carvings of hybrid mermaids - authentic Guarayos hammocks (which are almost impossible to find outside of Guarayos Province itself).

A lot of the cooler items you'll see in town at the various shops also can purchased during the town's annual patronal feast celebration (the weekend closest to 08 December). Recently, Concepción also has held crafts and cattle fairs at the same time, so there's more reason than ever to go. And they serve good ice cream. You'll want to keep that in mind when the temperature climbs to 38°C and stays there for hours on end.

Another must-see in the centre of town is the Museo Antropológico de la Chiquitania. This is located a block west of the plaza, in the Casa España at the intersection of Calles 16 de Septiembre and Tte. Capoblanco. The edifice is a wonderful old colonial-style building, also restored by Hans Roth. Open all week from 0800 to 1200 and again from 1400 to 1800, admission is free, and there is a small restaurant and guesthouse on the premises. This little gem of a museum has more information on the vanishing way of life of the indigenous peoples than any other institution outside of Santa Cruz. There are interesting displays on tribal family and communal life, a rare collection of traditional musical instruments of the Chiquitos (still used today in certain religious processions), and even two full-scale models of dwellings used by the Ayoreo and Chiquitano.

This building is also the local headquarters for Hombre y Naturaleza, an ecological awareness group that runs guided tours of local sites of interest, as well as in-town trips. Acknowledged universally as one of the best outfits of its kind, they offer trips to the kid-friendly eco-ranch Finca Kolping (just outside of town); the thermal springs at Zapocó (2 kms west of town); Lake Pachanga less than 2 miles (3 kms) south; and the rock formations and panoramic vistas of Santa Teresita at 5 miles (8 kms) southeast. Further afield, they'll take you to visit the ominously named "La Dolorida", the former estate of the ex-Nazi photographer Hans Ertl, now an ecological sanctuary 25 miles (40 kms) west of town at Km. 253 on the main road. If you wish, they can take you as far as Puerto Pedrito, 37 miles (60 kms) northwest on the Río Blanco.

There are no less than 37 indigenous communities in the area, and visits can be arranged to many of them through Hombre y Naturaleza. With some patience, they can arrange a trip to indigenous communities of Buena Esperanza, Candelaria, El Carmen, or Montecristo to the south.

Represa Concepción: A very green day indeed

Of all the many recreational areas that surround Concepción, there are two you'll not want to miss. One is Represa Concepción (not Laguna Concepción, which is much further away to the southeast), 1.4 miles (2 kms) outside of town, a wonderful spot for swimming, having a cookout, bird watching, fishing, canoeing, or simply lying on the makeshift beach. The other is Cachuela de San Isidro, 10.5 miles (17 kms) out, which offers similar amenities and guided tours for a paltry Bs. 5. You can also have Hombre y Naturaleza take you to lovely La Pallita, a stunningly beautiful spot on a riverbend a little more than 6 miles (10 kms) out of town. Much of the flora and fauna you're likely to see in the area can be spotted here.

Concepción is famed for its orchids, considered the finest in the country and perhaps continent. The town holds an orchid festival the second weekend of every October, the Festival Internacional de la Orquídea. If you can't make it then, just seven blocks south of the square you can see them in all their glory year-round. More than 6,000 of them, across almost 100 varieties, are on display at the hothouses of the rustic but elegant Hotel Chiquitos, which also happens to have a nice swimming pool and killer rooms on the upper floor. You can call (964.3153) or contact the hotel by email for information regarding upcoming exhibitions and the like.

And on the subject of hotels, stop by the lovely Gran Hotel Concepción (964.3031) off the plaza if you want to see what an immaculately restored nineteenth century hacienda looks like. You'll think you're on the set of an old movie. (It has a nice swimming pool, too, in case you're comparing amenities.) The owners also can advise you on horseback expeditions to local estancias and fishing spots.

Concepción also boasts the only zoo in the Chiquitania. The Kolping Zoo is a block behind the cathedral and two blocks to its left. The little-known but excellent International Kolping Society - a Catholic charitable organisation - also has an information and community service centre in the plaza, on the corner of calles Ñuflo de Chávez and 16 de Septiembre. At the other end of the same street is the Escuela Hans Roth Fé y Alegría, where the traditional arts of carving, sculpting, and painting as practised centuries ago are taught as part of the curriculum to the town's youth, thus ensuring a supply of the next generation of local artists.

Outside of the town, the views are predominantly of rolling hills and lush greenery. This shade of green simply doesn't exist outside of this area. It is vibrant beyond imagination. Through it all, one has the sensation of travelling back to a pre-historic time, with the strange rock outcroppings and fern-like trees that abound. (In geological terms, the area is Pre-Cambrian.) Although Concepción is given over to cattle raising, most of the estancias are set back, and the views afforded from the road are unparalleled. For the first 12 miles (20 kms) out of town (headed east), you'll find yourself taking photographs at every stop. Because of the sunlight, be sure to bring a UV filter.

Pre-Cambrian timewarp in the Chiquitania

Thanks to its wealth of scenic beauty, Concepción is a great place from which to take day trips. If you opt to strike out on your own, you can hail a taxi from the centre (Bs. 20 per hour), or, for the more adventurous, a motorbike taxi (Bs. 10 per hour). Visits can be arranged to many of the indigenous communities through Hombre y Naturaleza as noted above, or ask at the cathedral or the alcaldía and let them set something up for you.

Places to Shop in Concepción
Whilst San Xavier is the centre for traditional Chiquitania clothing, Taller IBA (see below) should be given many props for the quality of its work and its ability to work with just about any style, colour, or size known to man. If you want a variation on an existing design, Sra. Hilda Bazán is your woman. Drop in at her shop or call her at (763) 15449 (cell) and let her know what you want. Much sartorial joy awaits you.

Places to Eat in Concepción
The following establishments are listed alphabetically, and are not in any other particular order. Most hotels and other accommodations have their own restaurants. Room service is generally not offered, except in luxury-class establishments.

The small print: Only restaurants that have either a (sometimes vague) street address and/or telephone number are included here. All towns in the region have other eateries, usally in or near the market (ideal for travellers with cast-iron stomachs) or railway depôt (if there is one). This list incorporates only those that one reasonably can expect to locate without trouble.

Places to Stay in Concepción

When to Visit Concepción

But Does Concepción Have A...?

Need cash whilst in Concepción? You're in luck. There's a Western Union in the Cooperativa de la Merced on Avenida Monseñor Jorge Killian as one approaches the Hotel Chiquitos.

Ready to go now? For a downloadable street plan of Concepción, click here.