Roboré

Roboré is a gem of a town that sits along the route to Brazil, about 78 miles (125 kms) southeast of San José de Chiquitos along the railway, or 90 miles (145 kms) along a paved road if you're driving. If you have the misfortune to pass through it at night (as those who take the train invariably will), you'll miss it, which is a shame, as - along with Santiago de Chiquitos just 15.5 miles (25 kms) further along - it is one of the loveliest spots in the Chiquitania. For good reason it is called la perla del Oriente ("the pearl of the Oriente"), or, more romantically, el paraíso escondido ("the hidden paradise") by Bolivians. Perhaps not coincidentally, its inhabitants live longer than those of any other Bolivian town. And closer to the Brazilian border than most: you'll hear carioca - Brazilian Portuguese - spoken here as well as Spanish.

It is one of the region's newest towns, founded as a military outpost in 1916. You'd be forgiven for thinking you were back in 1916 even now: time moves slowly, and the place has a certain desultory charm to it. Roboré has much more going for it than simple peace and quiet, however. It also marks a transition zone from the flat, monotonous plains of the western Chiquitania to the bizarre, other-worldly landscapes that predominate in the southeastern Chiquitania before disappearing into the watery Pantanal. In the midst of this wild terrain are nestled two important eco-systems: the Chiquitano dry forest, and the Valle de Tucavaca. The flora and fauna here are mind-boggling: 350 bird species, 50 amphibians, and about 60 reptiles, all in the same habitat. If you have your own vehicle and can travel at your leisure, you'll pass petrified forests, eroded rock formations that have been twisted into bizarre shapes over several millennia, mysterious mesas that rise out of nowhere, and eerie cumbres (peaks) and torres (towers) that look frightening even in broad daylight. At certain points you'll wonder what planet you're on, and all this is before you reach the town!

Where to Go
Roboré is something of an anomaly in the Chiquitania: it has a very literate populace, and is home to an excellent seminary, library, museum, and military college, although the last one seems odd in its juxtaposition to the others. You can ring up the mayor's office (974.2276) to ask what may be happening - no, really, they would be flattered - but unless you're around for a fiesta, there usually isn't a great deal to do in the town itself except meander about the beautiful plaza, which has a distinctly Mediterranean feel to it. As you do, take a look at the Rafael Flores sculpture, "Brazos de la historia" ("Arms of History"), which was carved from an ancient (and now nearly extinct) paquió (gen. Hymenea), a giant, pre-historic shade palm.

Whatever you do, don't touch the paquió: Roboré's plaza principal

Stop by the Casino Militar and the Club Aeronáutico de la Fuerza Aérea, both on the plaza principal, to get an idea of what Roboré was like during its days as a military outpost. One gets the idea that the military didn't have it too bad out here. The casino is now a restaurant, but the Club Aeronáutico is still an active club, and welcomes fellow airmen from the world over.

Don't miss the Chaco War Museum, also on the plaza. Bolivians are not the most bellicose people on earth (nor should they be, considering they've lost every war they took part in, even this one against tiny Paraguay), but they are proud of their "formidable" armed forces: the same ones that took out Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. Anyway, it's worth stopping in - it does have quite a few artifacts in perfect condition - as long as you don't wear a t-shirt emblazoned with a Paraguayan flag.

Before you leave town, check out an artesanía or two. You won't find the Baroque-Mestizo high art for which the mission towns are famous, but you'll see plenty of hand-woven fabrics - the bags and mantles are especially noteworthy - made by the indigenous Ayoreo community. These items are fashioned from plants and use natural colouring agents; everything about them is completely organic. There is something very elegant in their natural simplicity, and they last an eternity.

If you're interested in seeing any of the native communities in their element, head to Urucú (2 miles southeast of town), where you can buy directly from the Ayoreo all manner of useful and not-so-useful (arrow fletchings, anyone?) household goods that are probably far better suited to their task than mass-produced plastic ones will ever be. Roboré's other environs also offer some fascinating day trips. (If you read Spanish, take along the latest edition of Destinos del Sureste Cruceño, an outstanding tourist guide for local sites. You can find it at the alcaldía as well as in travel agencies in Santa Cruz.)

Splendid isolation: en route to Santiago de Chiquitos from Roboré

One obvious choice is nearby Santiago de Chiquitos. Other possibilities include a number of shady, well-kept balnearios, the best of which are El Chorro, 1.5 miles out of town, and San Manuel, 2 miles northeast of town. A taxi ride to either shouldn't run more than US$1.50. There's also a third not far from the railway, the Balneario Ferroviario. Just outside of town are some beautiful waterfalls: San Luís (4 miles/6 kms) and Totaisales (3 miles/5 kms). You'll need reliable transport to reach either, but these places are paradise once you're there; the latter has some interesting but little-known pre-historic rock paintings. Roboré is blessed with myriad crystaline rivers, including the eponymous Roboré (which runs through the town) and San Manuel. It also has several clean lakes, such as Lago San Antonio (which feeds the Balneario Ferroviario) and the much larger Sucuará, 3 miles (5 kms) southeast of town. These are easier to get to than the waterfalls, but not as bucolic.

Further afield, there is the beautiful hamlet of Aguas Calientes (19 miles, or 31 kms), famed for exactly that: warm springs, which the local swear are curative. So prevalent is this belief that the railway has a station here, established by the petition of locals. A taxi will bring you here and back to town for about US$11.00, for up to four people per trip. Next door to Aguas Calientes is an even smaller hamlet, Burritos, also known for its crystalline waters, with two small alojamientos near the thermal springs if you're inclined to spend the night.

Places to Eat in Roboré
The following establishments are listed alphabetically, and are not in any other particular order. Most hotels and other accommodations have their own restaurants. Room service is generally not offered, except in luxury-class establishments.

Only those restaurants that have either a street address and/or telephone number are included here. All towns in the Chiquitania invariably have additional eateries, especially in or near the market (ideal for travellers with cast-iron stomachs), but this list incorporates only those that one reasonably can expect to locate without trouble.